Eatingfarfromhome: 24 hours in Lyon.


Yesterday will surely go down as one of the finest days of eating in my life. I've long been a fan of French places like Cafe Presse in Seattle, not to mention my ongoing croissant obsession. But until yesterday I now know I really didn't understand French cooking. And wow, was it ever a delightfully enlightening experience!

Here's a list of everything I ate, complete with prices (all in Euros).

Les Halles Market

-croissant and brioche with pralines. 2.40.

-cafe creme. 2.70.

-small round of Marcellin cheese. 3.05. The typical cheese of this region, from Renée Richard fromagerie. This is apparently the place to get cheese in the hallowed covered market's in Les Halles. The closest thing I can compare it to is a brie, but with a more pungent flavor (and odor) and far more complex.

-small baguette. 00.60.

Lunch at Le Comptoir des Marronniers. 15.00.

-Salade du Comptoir. Served slightly warm with sautéed onion, bits of pork/bacon, slices of an omelette-like thing made with fish & egg, lettuce, & a basalmic dressing that was divine (apparently fish sauce). This may seem like a strange combo, but believe me, this salad blew my hair back.

-Saucisson sauce échalottes. Sausage (a regional speciality) in a delicious brown shallot sauce, mashed potato, and brilliant roasted veggies; onion, zucchini. I don't know what they put on those veggies, but they were far from only a healthy add-on; they were delightful.

-Fromage Blanc. I'd heard of this, but had no idea what it actually was. It's a dessert which is basically plain yogurt in a creamy cheese-like consistency. Served with a sugar shaker. Very good!

-(another) croissant and espresso at Le Fournil de L'Opera (Eric Kayser). 2.20.

Dinner at Le Potager des Halles. 37.00 per person, well spent. This dinner was mind and palate blowing. Every bite was a delight and a revelation. If you are ever in Lyon, don't miss this place. They take the Spanish idea of tapas, but do it French style. It has a hipster cred that would stack up to any place in Portlandia, while having a distinctly French vibe, adding up to one memorable, and tasty, night!

-a Belgian beer, Affligem. 3.80.

-razor clams. 13.00.

-burrata, tomatoes à l'ancienne, et capres. 12.00. Amazing, amazing mozzarella with tomatoes. I would cross seas and fight barbarians to get another taste of this stuff. Divine.

-croque-monsieur with truffle oil. 10.00. A creative spin on this french classic that was to die for.

-chèvre and roasted red pepper & eggplant. 7.00. Is it ok if I say delicious again? Ok, delicious.

-duck heart with bacon on skewer. 6.50. Tasty, tasty, little morsels.

-red wine, Chinon les Granges. 17.00. Served cold to compliment the delightfully warm evening.

(Here's a picture of Dan surveying the scene at dinner)


eat, travelRyan Moore